Nos Aventures
Buenos Aires, the city of a thousand colors
Buenos Aires was for us the starting point of our trip. We were warned, it is far from being the most exotic place in Argentina for Europeans from an architectural point of view in particular, but also culturally. We stayed 6 nights in Buenos Aires, it gives us a good overview of the city. We were able to discover the liveliest neighborhoods like San Telmo or Palermo, but also the more residential and sometimes upscale neighborhoods like the Collegiales and Puerto Madero.
THE NEIGHBORHOODS WE FAVORITE:
PALERMO AND SAN TELMO
Lively neighborhoods where there are shops, restaurants, little charms, bars, and a good atmosphere. In Palermo, we were especially able to see the Botanical Garden (free) with its sublime greenhouse and we strolled through the streets to discover the local street art.
The Botanical Garden allows you to discover the flora of Argentina and other continents. For us, it was the end of autumn, we find its colors there. It is a very shady place, ideal for the summer with good homemade ice cream.
San Telmo is a fairly lively neighborhood. During the day it is animated by lots of small restaurants, tea rooms, ice cream parlors, its flea market (on Sundays) and in the evening with its many pubs, bars and nightclubs. The market is located along Humberto Primo street and there is also the covered market which is at the junction of Defensa and Carlos Calvo. In these two markets we find artisanal products: equipment for mate, silver jewellery, toys... There are food outlets and for the outdoor market, huge parillas (literally grilled meats, for us it's more or less the equivalent of a barbecue) take place. The closer you get to 9 de Julio Avenue, the more the products are “souvenir” items for tourists.
It is also in the district of San Telmo that we were able to see the Promenade Dessinée. These are a few streets where drawings of Argentine comic characters adorn the walls. You will find in particular drawings of Mafalda and her friends, the famous little girl known all over the world. We love this very colorful neighborhood for its many street art murals and colorful shops.
WHAT CAN YOU DO IN BUENOS AIRES?
The weather in Buenos Aires was mostly pretty gloomy when we were there. We then visited the MALBA which is the Museum of Latin American Arts in Buenos Aires, presenting works rather known as one of the famous self-portraits of Frida Kahlo, but also temporary exhibitions. The exhibitions of the moment were great, in particular an exhibition of photographs of a community living in the Amazon (the Yanomami) by Claudia Andujar. There was another exhibition of Juan Tessi Cameo with a rather original scenography. The cost of entry to MALBA for an adult is 100 pesos and 50 pesos on Wednesdays. Please note that the museum is closed on Saturdays.
The Cementerio de la Recoleta is, according to what we have read, the place to see during a visit to Buenos Aires. Admittedly, it changes French cemeteries, but we didn't really get hooked. The cemetery is organized like the city, that is to say, parallel and perpendicular alleys. The graves are often quite similar. And then, we can say it, it's not worth the Père-Lachaise. Maybe my attraction to this cemetery distorts my impressions of the Recoleta cemetery a little haha. We missed the boat for the guided tour in Spanish, it must be 10 times more fun. So that you don't miss the visit, here are the times: Tuesday to Saturday at 11 a.m. and 3 p.m. in Spanish and English, Tuesday and Thursday at 11 a.m.
Between two clearings, we went to the Floralis Genérica located in the Plaza de las Naciones Unidas. A giant flower of 23 meters which normally opens and closes according to the brightness of the day, it remained closed for a long time, because the mechanism was seized and the city considered its repair too expensive. It was finally restored in 2015 and remains an emblem of the city. A basin located below the work adds superb reflections.
The ecological reserve of Buenos Aires, the green lung of the city! And it felt good! There are several trails to enjoy the place, for us it was trail 3. It was nice to be able to see the sea and in case of clear weather you can even see Uruguay! There were a few birds, but the trails are still quite busy with joggers and Sunday walkers so you can't see a lot of animals. They hide the coconuts! It is possible to rent bikes, but not all the paths are always passable in case of heavy rains the previous days. On the edge of the reserve are sandwich shops offering Lomitos. Our first Lomitos! These are sandwiches with grilled meat and condiments that you add yourself: hot sauce, onions, marinated peppers, salad... It's a bit like the local hamburger, but you can also find real hamburguesas.
OUR PRACTICAL ADVICE
Find your way around
We talk about "cuadra" to situate oneself: the city is a real grid, so from one street to another, this forms a “cuadra” or a square. Suddenly, when you ask someone the direction, he will answer you that you have to walk so many cuadra in such a direction and then turn for so many cuadra… it's good I stop.
Transport
Well let's be clear, it's not the easiest thing to do at first. The stops are not always clearly indicated, especially as soon as you leave the hyper-center of Buenos Aires. There is not necessarily a bus shelter or significant indication. And then in the bus, you have to forget the maps or useful information on the line, there is none at all.
Before taking the bus, it is necessary to find out about its destination, that is to say more exactly at the intersection of which streets you must stop.
A queue of a few people may mean there is a bus stop.
Do not hesitate to ask the locals for information, they have always been kind and very helpful.
Accommodation
Buenos Aires being the capital of Argentina, you will only have spoiled for choice in terms of accommodation. Not all neighborhoods are created equal. If you stay in Palermo or San Telmo, the vibe will probably be nicer.
