Nos Aventures
PARC NATIONAL TALAMPAYA, UNE EXPÉRIENCE EN DEMI-TEINTE
During our gradual descent towards the south of Argentina, we decided to visit the National Park of Talampaya (pronounced “Talampasha” Argentinian version 🙂 and that of Ischigualasto (also called Valle de la Luna). The problem, c is that without your own vehicle, it's not so simple. This article recounts the rather mixed experience that ours was, but we still want to point out that the landscapes are magnificent and that in the end we do not regret to have been there. However, the experience could have been much better in other conditions. It is important that you know what to expect before going to this national park which in my opinion should be managed with a whole other way.
VISIT TALAMPAYA FROM LA RIOJA
We decide to stop in the city of La Rioja, capital of the province of the same name. We find a nice and inexpensive hostel close to the city center and we go to the tourist office to find out about the nearest national parks (Talampaya and Ischigualasto). The problem is that these two parks are in two separate provinces. Talampaya National Park is in the territory of La Rioja, but Ischigualasto is in the province of San Juan. Although these two parks are glued to each other, the entrances are a little less than a hundred kilometers from each other. As a result, the tourist office will only provide us with information about Talampaya, but in any case, we knew everything we wanted about this park. For Ischigualasto National Park, we refer to our guide to Argentina and to information found here and there on the internet. We then learn that the only ways to visit the park of Ischigualasto is on board your own vehicle or via an excursion from San Augustin de Valle Fertil (excursions cheaper than from La Rioja). In any case, vehicles, whether yours or the agency's, must follow a convoy to visit Ischigualasto Park. Unless you rent a car, go through an agency or hitchhike and have a lot of luck, it's impossible for us to visit the park. Too bad, we will just visit the Talampaya park which offers similar landscapes from what we have seen as photos on the internet.
DISCOVERING TALAMPAYA IS PAYABLE (IT'S EXPENSIVE)!
turns out that this park, although national and classified as a world heritage site by UNESCO in 2000, is managed by a tourist agency which obtained the concession for the park. It then became impossible to walk freely in the park. The only way to discover it is to pay for a guided tour in addition to the entrance to the national park. We would have preferred to pay more for the national park and less for the visit, but this is far from the case.
Other important information : guided tours can be done on foot, by bike, aboard a minibus or aboard a “safari” bus with a panoramic view on the roof. Visiting a national park by bus is not really the idea we have of discovering a protected place, we decide to opt for the bike ride. We then ask at the reception if we can do this walk and we are told that "yes, but you need a group of 8 people minimum" the same if you want to do it on foot... The parking lot of the park was almost empty and the little many people there wanted to take the bus… We waited a bit, but no one arrived, so we resigned ourselves to taking the minibus. In short, they prefer to run a minibus (petrol of course…) filled only a quarter in the park rather than to visit the park on foot or by bike. The logic escapes us, but unfortunately, this is where we return to the hostel having seen nothing. We pay (expensive, see the rates in our practical advice) and we wait for the minibus. Fortunately, an impeccable restaurant, empty of customers, but full of employees, can serve you a refreshment (also expensive). Otherwise, a small bus shelter is provided so you don't have to wait in the sun with a nice sign explaining what your money is for.
REFRESHMENTS IN THE “BOTANICAL GARDEN”
During our gradual descent towards the south of Argentina, we decided to visit the National Park of Talampaya (pronounced “Talampasha” Argentinian version 🙂 and that of Ischigualasto (also called Valle de la Luna). The problem, c is that without your own vehicle, it's not so simple. This article recounts the rather mixed experience that ours was, but we still want to point out that the landscapes are magnificent and that in the end we do not regret to have been there. However, the experience could have been much better in other conditions. It is important that you know what to expect before going to this national park which in my opinion should be managed with a whole other way.
A CATHEDRAL IN THE DESERT
Now that everyone is well drunk (haha no, but the sun is very strong), we take the minibus back to the third stop. This is the "Gothic Cathedral". This stage owes its name to the rock formations in the shape of vertical arrows which recall, with a little imagination all the same, the towers of a Gothic cathedral. Again, the sandstone wall rises to more than 200 meters and we feel really tiny next to it.
OUR PRACTICAL ADVICE
Visit
You have to be ready to accept a very structured visit. We don't stop where we want. The minibus can accommodate nearly 20 people.
Sunscreen, hat and water bottle will be your best friends.
Transport
To go to Talampaya National Park by bus you can either leave from La Rioja (which we did), or from Villa Union a little closer. In both cases, the same bus company makes the journey. From La Rioja, the trip takes about 3.5 hours and is quite cheap compared to fares in the rest of Argentina.
If you opt for Villa Union, you may be lucky enough to be picked up by a park ranger or an employee of the agency that manages the park, but you will have to be on the road early. During the summer season (January and February) you may have better luck with tourists picking you up from Villa Union. Otherwise, discounts and agencies offer their services from Villa Union.
Lodging
We were staying in a hostel in downtown La Rioja. The hostel was nice, clean and the staff friendly so we give you its name: Apacheta hostel. It cannot be booked online, but you will surely find what you are looking for among all the accommodations that there is in La Rioja .
Talampaya Park has free camping with no shade, but with small shaded picnic tables.
Prices
Entrance to the national park is 120 pesos for foreigners.
If you have a PVT visa like us, show it and get the price for Argentinians: 70 pesos.
(Mandatory) park excursions by bus range from 450 pesos to 625 pesos
The bus from La Rioja to Villa Union stops in front of the entrance to Talampaya Park for 150 pesos per person. There are 2 or 3 a day in each direction depending on the season. Remember to ask the driver to stop at the park entrance.
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