24 Hours in Tilcara

We traveled to Tilcara, our first stop in the province of Jujuy. The trip from San Salvador de Jujuy to Tilcara already gives a glimpse of the magnificent colored mountains of the region. Villages, even small towns in the middle of nowhere that come alive all day long. We stayed there for a day, just before our wwoofing in the area. We took the opportunity to walk around, see the devil's throat " the Garganta del Diablo”, a waterfall and a set of Omaguacas ruins (old local ethnic group) named “Pucara”.

DESCENT INTO THE DEVIL'S GORGE OF TILCARA

The walk to access the Garganta del Diablo charmed us. Cacti and more cacti! With orange and ocher colored mountains as a backdrop. In short, it's nice.

In addition, the trail is well marked, just follow the path. In this season, the path is super practicable, it hasn't had more for months and the pebbles remain rather well in place. At the beginning, it goes up a little, but after the path widens and it's a good false flat as we say in the jargon. Once the 4 kilometers traveled, we arrive at the entrance of the Garganta del Diablo, where we must pay an entrance ticket. Okay, the garganta isn't hugely impressive, but the trail is a nice walk and lots of cool views.

We imagine that in summer when the rain can be heavy, the path to reach the natural waterfall must be much less passable since we walk in the bed of the river. Once arrived at the waterfall, we admire lush vegetation around the fall in the middle of a rather arid place.

THE RUINS OF THE PUCARA DE TILCARA

Then, we took advantage of the free entrance (on Mondays) to the Pucara de Tilcara which is located in the heights of the village to have a view of the city. In a few words, a Pucara is a fortress village that rises on a strategic point of the territory. Here it is the Quebrada de Humahuaca. We then enjoy the view of the Rio Grande de Jujuy, which was dry when we came. The site has been the subject of a restoration project, you can do the tour very quickly without a guide. There's also a pyramid-shaped monument that the archaeologists had built right in the middle (but there was never a pyramid here)... They barely got a big head. It's rather grotesque. But with Tim, we are so nice, we decided that we would build a completely irrelevant monument like that too one day lol…

OUR PRACTICAL ADVICE

Restoration

Covered market which can be accessed by an entrance just opposite the police station in a corner of the main square. Interesting prices.
A dozen restaurants offer set menus for lunch.

Activities

The Garganta del Diablo and the waterfall:

1 hour of leisurely walk from the exit of the village with a photo stop to access the entrance to the Gorge du Diable. Possibility of horseback riding. The track by car indicates 8 kilometers of distance against 4 on foot. “Rebates” (taxi without meter with flat rate) offer the trip for the sum of 300 pesos… Needless to say, it's overpriced.
There are a few food options once you enter the gorge: tortillas and empanadas. (among others)
The entrance ticket is 15 pesos per person and there are even toilets (unlucky it was closed when we were there).
It takes a good half hour to descend into the Devil's Throat and see the natural waterfall a little further.
If you wish to stay a little longer on the premises, a few kilometers away is a cemetery in the mountains.

The cactus garden, the Pucara de Tilcara and the archaeological museum:

The entrance ticket is 60 pesos, it allows access to the ruins of Pucara, the cactus garden and the archaeological museum located in the main square of Tilcara. Every Monday, entry to all of these sites is free! Hallelujah!

Accommodation

There are tons of hostels, hotels and a few campsites.
We were at Tierra Andina , a charming hostel with a very nice manager. The kitchen is quite well stocked and there are plenty of small tables to eat in the garden of the hostel. In addition, breakfast is included 🙂

Shopping

Craft market every day and all day in the main square. There are also several shops that stand out a bit, but the prices seem exorbitant.